Maryam Jaama

To summarise the intention of this project, I wanted to design a collection that was inspired by the 1920s ‘Harlem Renaissance’ movement but still make it relevant to today. A lot of artists in that time made pieces focusing on great success because the main aim of the HR movement was to change the image of how Black people are presented in media because before it was only portraying stereotypes or villainizing them: issues that are still prevalent today. I wanted to focus on the ordinary, everyday life that are often overlooked because so often, people will categorise successful Black people as ‘ other’, the one that succeeded. It’s often used against Black people to further imply that they are lazy or choosing to struggle because ‘ if they can do it, why can’t you?’. This collection highlights that there is success in maintaining normality in a society that is so bent on making things harder. From Black women’s struggle with being believed in medical care, to Black men’s difficulty with the police, even to Black children being adultified from as young as 5, society doesn’t often see them as people. This project was to highlight the success of being individuals outside of the stereotypes.

I kept the zoot silhouette because I believe I believe the message of the suit fits the collection. It is about reclamation of identity and refusing to be invisible. That’s why I made the lapels of the suit be silhouettes of ordinary life: the thing that is most often invisible . The print is silhouettes ( inspired by Aaron Douglas) on simple life which are hopeful and energising to show how even the most ordinary Black people are incredible for finding joy in the normality in life when sometimes, that’s the hardest thing.